If you are new to serging, or someone who is just looking for a cheap serger...then you don't need much. If that's the case, a Brother Lock 1034D model is the one for you. It's by far the cheapest serger we've tested. In fact it costs more than 40% less than the next cheapest model in our top ten and is actually considered the cheapest model on the market...and the savings are even bigger compared to some of the higher end models out there. Obviously, the savings come at a price. The serger doesn't have many of the features you'd find in other models(i.e. it's only limited to a 3 or 4 thread pattern). But that's because it's a basic model. This is the system for those of you who just want to have a cheap serger machine at home, that you might use once or twice times a year.

If you are a student or a hobbyist, then you need a slightly more powerful serger to keep up with your needs. You need one that provides 2, 3, 4 and 5 thread patterns, adjustible stitch length and it helps to have automatic looper threading so you don't waste precious time. Once you add the 5 thread option to your requirement list, you eliminate 90% of the sergers on the market. In fact, under $1,000 you are just left with two options. The Juki Pearl MO-655 and the Juki MO-735 models. They are fairly similar models(the only difference is that the MO-735 also does coverhem stitches), but there is a pretty big difference in price. The MO-655 model will run you $549(MSRP of $1,723) and the MO-735 model will run you $999(MSRP of $1,993). As you can see...there is a very small difference at MSRP...but the MO-655 model has much bigger discounts...making it a much better deal. So is the $450 difference worth it? Well that depends on one question...do you need to make coverhem stitches? If the answer is yes, then you have no choice but to pay the premium...if the answer is no, then you should save your money and stick with the MO-655 model.

Not all students/hobbysts can afford to pay $549 for the Juki MO-655...yet the $187 Brother Lock 1034D is just too bare bones for serious work. Luckily, there are a few decent mid-range alternatives...the Juki MO-644D and the MO-654DE models. These have almost all the features of the more expensive sergers(minus the 5 thread stitching)...but cost quite a bit less. The MO-644D sells for $325 and the MO-654DE sells for $433...which is 40% and 20% less than the MO-655 model. So which is the one for you? Well you'll need to decide if the extra features of the MO-654DE serger is worth the $100+ premium. The MO-654DE model comes with a 2/3 thread converter, an automatic self-threading lower looper and a safety feature that keeps the machine from running unless all the doors are safely closed. The automatic threading is obviously the main feature you are paying for here...and it's definitely worth the premium...but it's not the end of the world if you don't have it. So if you are budget conscious, yet don't want to buy the cheapest thing on the market, the MO-644D is a very decent choice.

Buying a serger can get complicated. So we've created this serger buying guide to help you make your decision. Don't forget to check the Top Picks tab where we recommend the best sergers for each particular buying demographic.

Serger sewing machines cut and finish the raw edges of your materials These machines combine a number of functions into a simple process - they can stitch a seam, trim the excess allowances and overcast the edge of your fabric...which in turn allows you to use your serger to achieve professional quality stitching in a very short time, at least compared to manual methods. That's because unlike a straight stitch machine, sergers use loopers to make the stitch and they also come with special knives to cut the fabric. This lets you make great looking fabric, in much less time(compared to a normal stitching machine).

Essentially, adding a serger sewing machine to your sewing room completes it and allows you to give your projects a finished and professional look. These compact machines can stitch at twice the speed of normal machines and can help you create those ravel-free seams, tight overlock stitches and even let you make custom decorative edging...all in a fraction of the time it'd take you to do it without a serger.

Buying a serger can be a difficult process. There are serger machines for all levels of sewers. From beginner sergers that might cost a few hundred dollars, to professional sergers that can cost thousands. No matter the price, adding even a base model serger to your room will take your skill to the next level.

To help you decide on which serger is right for you, we've analyzed all the different sergers on the market to find the best ones for you to buy.

Our process is pretty extensive...with each serger we've examined the machine and tested to make sure that all the dials/switches are easily accessible. We've also checked the resistance in the foot pedal as well as the lighting and other features. Finally we've tested each serger by making different stitches. This included the 2-thread(overedged, rolled hem), 3-thread(flatlock, overlock, rolled hem), 4-thread(with overlock), 5-thread(with overlock and safety chain stitch) and finally we tested a cover stitch. As you can see, this allows us to create great serger reviews that can help you make your decision in finding the best serger for you.

When a serger is used, it essentially goes through six steps.

• When the needle enters your fabric, a loop gets formed in the thread at the back of the needle.
• The needle then continues its downward motion and goes into the fabric, at which point the lower looper begins the movement from left to right. The tip of the lower looper then passes behind the needle and then through the loop of the thread that was formed behind the needle.
• The lower looper then continues along the path moving toward the irght of the serger. As the looper moves to the right, the lower thread gets carried through the needle thread.
• While the lower looper moves left to right, the upper looper moves right to left. The tip of the upper looper than passes behind the lower looper and picks up the lower looper thread as well as the needle thread.
• The lower looper then begins its move back into the far left position and as the upper looper goes left, it holds hte lower looper thread and needle thread securely in place.
• The needle then begins its downward path...passing behind the upper looper and securing the upper looper thread. This finishes the overstock stitch creation process and the cycle starts all over again.

There are a lot of different features when it comes to the different serger machines...but what do they mean?

• Sewing Speed - serger's speed...how many stitches it can make per minute(spm). Usually this number varies between 1,000 spm and 1,500 spm for most sergers. A job that takes 30 minutes on a 1,000 spm machine...will only take you 20 minutes on the 1,500 spm machine.
• 2-Thread Stitch - This means that the serging machine can make 2-thread stitches such as 2-thread chainstitch, 2-thread rolled hem, 2-thread overcast, 2-thread flatlock. Chainstich only available on those sergers that can do chain
• 3-Thread Stitch - This means that the serging machine makes 3-thread stitches such as 3-thread flatlock, 3-thread overlock, 3-thread narrow overlock, 3-thread rolledhem, 3-thread coverstitch, 3-thread super stretch, 3-thread narrow seam. Coverstitch only available on those sergers that can do coverstitches.
• 4-Thread Stitch - This means that the serger can make 4-thread stitches, such as a 4-thread overlock, 4-thread coverstitch and a 2-thread overlock + chain stitch. Coverstitch/chainstich only available on those sergers that can do coverstitches.
• 5-Thread Stitch - This means that the serger can handle a 5-thread stitch. Usually this means that it's a 3-thread Overlock with a 2-thread chainstitch which make a professional and a very secure seam. Chainstich only available on those sergers that can do chainstitches.
• Adjustible Stitch Length - means that the serger has a dial to change the stitch length for specialty thread or overlock techniques. Pretty much any decent serger should have this feature.
• Stitch Length Max - what's the max length for the stitch length from this serger(please note, if the stitch length max and the stitch length min have the same values, that it just means that the serger isn't adjustible)
• Stitch Length Min - what's the min length for the stitch length from this serger.
• Adjustible Width - can you adjust the knife cutting width to easily create perfect seams and rolled edges.
• Color Coded Threading - this is pretty standard in most sergers. This means that there are color coded dots on the serger to help you thread correctly. Without these threading becomes a complicated task.
• Adjustible Thread Tension - means that the serger allows you to adjust the thread tension
• Heavy Duty Knife - a powered system that makes it easy to cut off both light and heavy fabrics. Pretty much all sergers will have this feature, and it's usually run on a dedicated drive to assure it doesn't interfere with the rest of the workload.
• Adjustible Knife - can you adjust the knife to change the width of the fabric in the seam allowance?
• Built-in Sewing Light - does the serger have a built in light? Pretty much all sergers have this feature, except for a few bare bones models.
• Automatic Looper Threading - this one is very important. The looper threader allows for easy threading in seconds...just slide the thread into a slot and snap the looper back into place. This means you don't need to waste time doing this manually.
• Automatic Rolled Hemming - means that you can switch to rolled hemming quickly...without needing to change out the needle plate or the foot.
• Chainstitch - means that the serger can do a chainstitch.
• Rolled Hem - means that the serger can do a rolled hem.
• Coverstitch - means that the serger can do a coverstitch.
• Differential Feed - means that the serger has an adjustible differential feed.
• Dimensions - sergers come in all shapes and sizes...we list dimensions(width, height, depth) in millimeters (same as the manufacturers)...to convert this to inches, simply divide each number by 25.4.
• Weight - Here we list how much each serger weighs in pounds. Most systems are pretty light...and they tend to vary by manufacturer. Juki/Brother tend to prefer smaller/lighter units...while Janome opts out for bigger/heavier ones.
• Warranty - Warranties for sergers are pretty similar. It didn't use to be the case, but now pretty much all companies offer 5 years for mechanical problems and 2 years for electrical ones. The mechanical one is the one to look at...since sergers are mechanical in nature. The electrical coverage mostly focuses on power supply to drive your serging functionality and the bulb to light your way. Pretty much everything else is mechanical.
• Pricing - we go to great lengths to find the best prices on the web. And we realize that you always require shipping when shopping on the internet...so when we do our research, we always make sure to list the price with shipping included. There is no sense in "saving" $10 on a machine, if you get to pay $60 to have it shipped. Please note, the pricing we get is for shipping in the 48 contiguous states...if you are in Alaska, Hawaii or outside the United States, your final price might be higher...although the actual ranking for prices should remain the same since most sergers would cost the same for a vendor to ship. Essentially if it costs $5 more to ship something for Alaska, that would be the same for all sergers.

Overall, when buying a serger, there are 3 things to focus on. The sewing speed, the # of threads it can handle and the ease of use features it has(i.e. automatic looper threading). And of course the price...after all, if you don't plan to use some features...there is absolutely no reason to pay a premium.

 

Essentially your choice boils down to 3 categories...and the difference between each is a few hundred dollars.

 

The low budget limited sergers that have very few features..and cost next to nothing(~$200).

 

The mid budget sergers that can do pretty much everything you can throw at them...minus a few limited use features(~$400)

 

And the top end pricey sergers, that can do anything you need(~$500-$1,000).

 

It's up to you to decide what works within your budget. Overall, we can say that the jump between a low budget and a mid-budget serger is worth the premium for anyone(the low budget ones are that limited). But the jump between mid to high end is pretty hard to justify...unless you already planning to use that extra functionality.